Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Newfoundland2

Next on our lighthouse/geocache list was Cape Ray Lighthouse.  It is also the site of a Dorset archeological find; to be exact, a site where Dorset Paleoeskimos occupied for some 800 years about 1800 years ago.  Now, I'm from Indiana.  We have corn and soybeans and towns that date back to the mid-1800's.  Indians roamed the area before that, but we do not have Paleoeskimos.  I am in love with this island!



We promised ourselves that we would make a special effort to get ourselves off the main highway. Thus, when we read about The Codroy Valley Wetlands that attract hundreds of rare species during the migratory seasons, we knew we could not pass this area up.

Across the road from the Interpretative Center, a  wetlands trail of 3 kms or so seemed to be a great way for us to enjoy the fresh air and cool breezes.  The young woman told us that the trail had just been groomed up to a road and then we had to follow the road and then pick up the trail again, going past a wildlife preservation center.  Bears and moose, bears and moose.



Mike led the way and in due time we found the road.  Then we found the bridge to nowhere.  Absolutely nowhere.  Scrambling around, stepping carefully, we finally crossed a large expanse of field, followed a long driveway back to the road some 6-7 kms later.  It was close to noon and we saw a total of three songbirds and few geese on a lake in the distance.  Oh, and fresh moose tracks, too!!!

Despite our poor timing, this is a beautiful area and birding should be wonderful.  The town of Stephenville Crossing boasts a Piping Plover nesting site, so off we went.  Before we got there, we found a cafe out in the countryside.  I had my first moose burger.  Not too bad, but a bit stronger in taste than a bison burger.  Again, the Piping Plover nesting area was fenced off; but I respect their efforts of save these little shorebirds.

In Stephenville itself, we found a Chinese restaurant that had been there for 52 years.  Stephenville was the home to Harmon Air Force Base from 1941 to 1966.  It is apparent that the local government is trying to utilize the remaining buildings and space for small businesses and a regional college.  We found the Zenzville Campground just out of town.

Not quite ready to get back on the main highway, we turned toward Lark Harbor and  Cox Cove. Not disappointed, in Cox Cove the ships were unloading tons of fish right into the fishery.  We ate our lunch in a Take-Away.  Fish is abundant, but most of it is fried.  In Lark Harbor, we saw the Viking boat replica which was used in a movie set in this quaint fishing village.



Bears and moose, bears and moose...driving along the TransCanadian Highway toward Rocky Harbour we finally saw a real moose - startled, it ran quickly into the nearby brush.  Fortunately for the moose and us, a fence kept us apart.  Designed with openings, it allows a moose to run for cover behind the fence, but it can't exit onto the road. 


Gros Morne RV Camp is well-kept, quiet and convenient to Gros Morne National Park where we were to hike 3 kms across expansive bog and join a cruise up the fjord at West Brook Pond the next day.  We had to wait a bit to find out if the cruise was on because it was cloudy and foggy and they would cancel if it did not clear.  It did, slightly.  Huddled together against the 30 kt wind, we enjoyed the tales of the grandson of the gentleman who started the cruise up the fjord.  Of special interest to any boater is his description of how they helicoptered in the current boat, too large to be trucked over the bog.  Piece by piece arrived and then was fitted together.

Gros Morne is a backpacker's and hiker's paradise.  We knew we could not do it all and so walking the 6 kms out and back to the fjord and then taking the cruise was our focus.


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