Friday, November 28, 2014

            After seven (7) years of living aboard and cruising the eastern third of the US and Bahamas – including two years on The Loop – we had begun to reflect on our experiences.

            Without doubt, the first year was thrilling and challenging.  One of the concerns was the prospect of spending the holidays without family and friends.
            After leaving South Haven, Michigan, in June of ’99, we finally arrived in Georgia waters in mid-November, having dodged five hurricanes in the process.  Needless-to-say, we were tired and ready for a break.  Our two cruising companions-Kittiwake and Serenade-, too, were ready to stop. A fellow cruiser Randy on Strider suggested we stop at Jekyll Harbor Marina.  Relieved to take a break, we tied our boat to a slip and liked it so much, we stayed a month.

            With Thanksgiving on the horizon, we made a quick trip to Winn-Dixie for turkey breast, instant mashed potatoes, a box of stuffing, a can of cranberries, pumpkin pie and Cool-Whip – we were set!
            Since there were so many transients at the marina that year, we all gathered under the moss-draped Live Oaks and spread our meal on picnic tables.  Turkey, ham, a gunny-sack of roasted oysters along with cruiser-donated side dishes made our feast.  Conversations quickly drifted to the anticipation of Gulf-Stream crossings, Bahamas cruising, shared stories of ICW groundings, favorite ports of call and the promise of winter cruising.  Before long, charts replaced paper plates as first-timers made notations and began to finally relax.  And, we were ever so thankful.
            In the intervening years, we spent several Thanksgivings along with 300 or so in Vero Beach.  Usually rafted two or three to a mooring, cruisers staged for that Bahamas or Key West cruise.  Each hourly city bus arrived at the dinghy dock filled to capacity with cruisers sporting loaded backpacks and carrying plastic grocery bags bulging with groceries.  Within an hour, the process began again until the lockers were full.  In the meantime, volunteers collected donations and organized a special Thanksgiving at the local park.  They shopped for turkey, potatoes and dressing at the local Publix while others set up tables and served.  The afternoon was filled with meeting old friends, sharing plans and soothing the concerns of new cruisers as well as phone calls home.  And, we were ever so thankful.
            In March of 2004, we decided to follow The Loop and basically circumnavigate the eastern third of the US, including some of Quebec and Ontario.  We left Caladesi Island, FL, on March 1, 2004.  By Thanksgiving, we were sailing west on the Mississippi Sound and found a berth for the night in Slidell, Louisiana.  Having decided not to end our journey in 2004, we had secured a slip for four months in Mandeville, Louisiana.  The weather that Thanksgiving was less than ideal: thunderstorms and water spouts danced around us.  We didn’t budge.
            I was suffering from a sinus infection, ear infection and bronchitis. I just wanted to stay in bed, but it was Thanksgiving.  We were all alone in the marina since it was “off season” so the marina restaurant was closed.  Mike took a walk and found a Waffle House open. He came and got me and Thanksgiving that day was more of a breakfast brunch.  For dinner, he found hot dogs and Zingers at a gas station, my favorite junk food, hoping I would begin to feel better.  The storms veered north and south of us that day.  And, we were ever so thankful.
            Later, on one of the last trips we made down the ICW, we decided to spend a few days in Beaufort, South Carolina.  The anchorage is free; but with strong tidal waters, the boats dance around when the tide and wind are coming from opposite directions.  Or worse, they drag anchor and collide with other boats in the anchorage.  The longer we cruised, the more cautious we became of “free.” 
            On Wednesday, the day before Thanksgiving, flyers were passed around the marina, welcoming us to share Thanksgiving at the local Episcopal Church. Well, shoot, why not?  We were graciously welcomed by the local congregants, many of them also without family nearby.  Our morning was spent walking the streets of this historic community while searching for geocaches and admiring the low country architecture.  And, we were ever so thankful.
Our schedule on the last trip down the ICW should have allowed us plenty of time to make Jekyll Island Harbor Marina by Thanksgiving, but it was not to be.  Our last grocery stop had been Washington, North Carolina.  We were getting low on supplies.
Despite a favorable forecast and winds from the southwest (usually helpful when crossing Sapelo Sound or St Catherine’s), fifteen knots became 0 just before we entered Sapelo.  The billowing, dark clouds should have given us warning; but just as we turned to starboard, the wind picked up, 30, 40, with gusts over 50 knots.  We were motor sailing with little sail up, but our dinghy was lashed to the foredeck and the wind picked it up sideways, blocking our view ahead.  The gusts repeated themselves two or three times before the winds settled down to a modest 25 knots.  Our Schucker motorsailer is built like a tank and now we knew it for sure.  Two smaller Cape Dory sailboats could not make way against that strong wind and had turned back.  By the time we entered the ICW just south of Sapelo Sound and found an anchorage for the night, the winds had abated into the gentle range of 10-15 knots.  We settled in for one more night just off the ICW.  We ate what we had on board with a promise that we would reward ourselves with dinner out tomorrow at SeaJay’s (now 685 Seafood).  And, we were ever so thankful.
            The most memorable, however, of all Thanksgivings has to be the one spent in Carabelle, Florida, as we neared the end of our Loop experience. After we first arrived, other Loopers quickly informed us about Thanksgiving the next day.  “Bring a dish to share.  Harry’s is just down the street to the right.”
            At the appointed hour, we walked up the hill, turned right, looking for Harry’s.  Across the street from the shrimp boats sat a rustic-looking bar, highlighted by a blinking neon Budweiser sign. At this moment, owning a Harley seemed really appropriate. With some trepidation we opened the squeaky wooden door.  There, all in a row at the long bar, sat Harry’s regulars! Beer in one hand and a cigarette or two in the other.  Were we in the right place!? Grateful the chatter didn’t stop as we walked in, we looked through the thick blue smoke hanging in the room to see familiar faces:  the crews of Highborne Lady, Hale Kai, and Freebird.
            The feast was spread out on a pool table covered in oil cloth. We Loopers had been invited to share in Harry’s annual Thanksgiving. It didn’t take long for us to join the crowd discussing the upcoming Big Bend crossing. Listening carefully to the advice of the local boaters, we mentally took notes and began to relax. And, we have been ever so thankful.
            Fifteen years have passed since that first Thanksgiving at Jekyll Harbor Marina.  We cruise seldom, but still spend a few months on our boat at Jekyll Harbor Marina. And, we are ever so thankful.


Edited 2014

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