After seven (7) years of living
aboard and cruising the eastern third of the US and Bahamas – including two
years on The Loop – we had begun to
reflect on our experiences.
Without doubt, the first year was
thrilling and challenging. One of the
concerns was the prospect of spending the holidays without family and friends.
After leaving South Haven, Michigan,
in June of ’99, we finally arrived in Georgia waters in mid-November, having
dodged five hurricanes in the process.
Needless-to-say, we were tired and ready for a break. Our two cruising companions-Kittiwake and Serenade-, too, were ready to stop. A fellow cruiser Randy on Strider suggested we stop at Jekyll
Harbor Marina. Relieved to take a break,
we tied our boat to a slip and liked it so much, we stayed a month.
With
Thanksgiving on the horizon, we made a quick trip to Winn-Dixie for turkey
breast, instant mashed potatoes, a box of stuffing, a can of cranberries,
pumpkin pie and Cool-Whip – we were set!
Since there were so many transients
at the marina that year, we all gathered under the moss-draped Live Oaks and
spread our meal on picnic tables.
Turkey, ham, a gunny-sack of roasted oysters along with cruiser-donated
side dishes made our feast.
Conversations quickly drifted to the anticipation of Gulf-Stream
crossings, Bahamas cruising, shared stories of ICW groundings, favorite ports
of call and the promise of winter cruising.
Before long, charts replaced paper plates as first-timers made notations
and began to finally relax. And, we were
ever so thankful.
In the intervening years, we spent
several Thanksgivings along with 300 or so in Vero Beach. Usually rafted two or three to a mooring,
cruisers staged for that Bahamas or Key West cruise. Each hourly city bus arrived at the dinghy
dock filled to capacity with cruisers sporting loaded backpacks and carrying
plastic grocery bags bulging with groceries.
Within an hour, the process began again until the lockers were
full. In the meantime, volunteers
collected donations and organized a special Thanksgiving at the local
park. They shopped for turkey, potatoes
and dressing at the local Publix while others set up tables and served. The afternoon was filled with meeting old
friends, sharing plans and soothing the concerns of new cruisers as well as
phone calls home. And, we were ever so
thankful.
In March of 2004, we decided to
follow The Loop and basically
circumnavigate the eastern third of the US, including some of Quebec and
Ontario. We left Caladesi Island, FL, on
March 1, 2004. By Thanksgiving, we were
sailing west on the Mississippi Sound and found a berth for the night in
Slidell, Louisiana. Having decided not
to end our journey in 2004, we had secured a slip for four months in
Mandeville, Louisiana. The weather that
Thanksgiving was less than ideal: thunderstorms and water spouts danced around
us. We didn’t budge.
I was suffering from a sinus
infection, ear infection and bronchitis. I just wanted to stay in bed, but it
was Thanksgiving. We were all alone in
the marina since it was “off season” so the marina restaurant was closed. Mike took a walk and found a Waffle House
open. He came and got me and Thanksgiving that day was more of a breakfast
brunch. For dinner, he found hot dogs
and Zingers at a gas station, my favorite junk food, hoping I would begin to
feel better. The storms veered north and
south of us that day. And, we were ever
so thankful.
Later, on one of the last trips we
made down the ICW, we decided to spend a few days in Beaufort, South Carolina. The anchorage is free; but with strong tidal
waters, the boats dance around when the tide and wind are coming from opposite
directions. Or worse, they drag anchor
and collide with other boats in the anchorage.
The longer we cruised, the more cautious we became of “free.”
On Wednesday, the day before
Thanksgiving, flyers were passed around the marina, welcoming us to share
Thanksgiving at the local Episcopal Church. Well, shoot, why not? We were graciously welcomed by the local
congregants, many of them also without family nearby. Our morning was spent walking the streets of
this historic community while searching for geocaches and admiring the low
country architecture. And, we were ever
so thankful.
Our schedule on the last trip down the ICW should
have allowed us plenty of time to make Jekyll Island Harbor Marina by
Thanksgiving, but it was not to be. Our
last grocery stop had been Washington, North Carolina. We were getting low on supplies.
Despite a favorable forecast and winds from the
southwest (usually helpful when crossing Sapelo Sound or St Catherine’s), fifteen
knots became 0 just before we entered Sapelo.
The billowing, dark clouds should have given us warning; but just as we
turned to starboard, the wind picked up, 30, 40, with gusts over 50 knots. We were motor sailing with little sail up, but
our dinghy was lashed to the foredeck and the wind picked it up sideways,
blocking our view ahead. The gusts
repeated themselves two or three times before the winds settled down to a
modest 25 knots. Our Schucker motorsaile r
is built like a tank and now we knew it for sure. Two smaller Cape Dory sailboats could not
make way against that strong wind and had turned back. By the time we entered the ICW just south of
Sapelo Sound and found an anchorage for the night, the winds had abated into
the gentle range of 10-15 knots. We
settled in for one more night just off the ICW.
We ate what we had on board with a promise that we would reward
ourselves with dinner out tomorrow at SeaJay’s
(now 685 Seafood). And, we were ever so thankful.
The most memorable, however, of all
Thanksgivings has to be the one spent in Carabelle, Florida, as we neared the
end of our Loop experience. After we
first arrived, other Loopers quickly informed us about Thanksgiving the next
day. “Bring a dish to share. Harry’s is just down the street to the
right.”
At the appointed hour, we walked up
the hill, turned right, looking for Harry’s.
Across the street from the shrimp boats sat a rustic-looking bar,
highlighted by a blinking neon Budweiser sign. At this moment, owning a Harley
seemed really appropriate. With some trepidation we opened the squeaky wooden
door. There, all in a row at the long
bar, sat Harry’s regulars! Beer in one hand and a cigarette or two in the
other. Were we in the right place!?
Grateful the chatter didn’t stop as we walked in, we looked through the thick
blue smoke hanging in the room to see familiar faces: the crews of Highborne Lady, Hale Kai,
and Freebird.
The feast was spread out on a pool
table covered in oil cloth. We Loopers had been invited to share in Harry’s
annual Thanksgiving. It didn’t take long for us to join the crowd discussing
the upcoming Big Bend crossing. Listening carefully to the advice of the local
boaters, we mentally took notes and began to relax. And, we have been ever so
thankful.
Fifteen years have passed since that
first Thanksgiving at Jekyll Harbor Marina.
We cruise seldom, but still spend a few months on our boat at Jekyll
Harbor Marina. And, we are ever so thankful.
Edited
2014
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