After much studying, we decided to approach Cape Breton by driving clockwise, starting at Margaree Valley area. We stopped at The Dancing Goat Restaurant, not to eat, but to get a nearby geocache; but if we ever get back, it looks like a nice place for lunch.
At the Visitor's Center in Cheticamp, the nice lady who helped us suggested we go on farther north because the next day was going to be cloudy, rainy and windy (50 kts). We were able to use our Discovery Pass which we had purchased in New Brunswick for the Cape Breton Highlands National Park of Canada. Instead of paying for our visit as we entered the park, we paid at the end of our trip. It is possible to drive around Cape Breton in one day and not pay a fee, but we did not want to cruise past some of the inviting "look-off's" along the way. Our pass saved us the entry fees, although we still paid a small camping fee.
We chose to dry camp at Big Intervale campsite in the northerly reaches of the park, more of a parking lot next to a stream. By ourselves again, although two young campers arrived by car and set out on foot.....bears and moose, bears and moose.
The next day was, indeed, cloudy with pockets of drizzle; but we carried on, stopping first at Black Brook Cove. Boy, what fascinating rocks! It was a good beach walk, but I was not allowed to bring home any of the lobster pots washed ashore. Such a shame!
We hiked out Middle Head Trail which starts near the Keltic Lodge, former home of Alexander Graham Bell. It follows an old trail that was used to lead his cattle out to a grassy clearing near the end of the point of land. We were treated to small flocks of Black Guillemot, nesting on the rocky ledges above the sea.
Another geocache was not far away so we detoured to the Freshwater Lake Trail. If we had found four others within the park, we could claim a special geocoin. Maybe we should go back...
Lunch at The Clucking Chicken was a really good soup and sandwich combo while dozens of ceramic chickens stared at us from all corners of the room.
So that we wouldn't backtrack and we could proceed on our way to drive around Bras d'Or Lake, we chose to take the St Ann's Bay ferry. Near South Haven, I left Beetle Bailey #6 travel bug in a cache. It was snapped up soon after and has been touring Norway this summer!
We followed the GPS down a couple of rough roads until we could get our bearing again and continue around the lake toward North Sydney. It is definitely cottage country We found Arm of Gold Campground 5 km from the ferry which we were scheduled to take the following evening. The campground wasn't officially opened for the season, but the owner let us stay anyway. It is a beautiful campground situated on a family-owned farm that hasn't been sold since the 1700's.
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