Roadtrekking through the Canadian Maritimes has been first on our list to do with our
2007/8 Roadtrek 210 Versatile since we began to dream about the places we would like to visit now that we are more landlubbers than cruising sailors. Some refer to folks like us as "CLODS": Cruisers Living On Dirt. Could we experience the same sense of adventure and exploration, the pleasure of meeting friendly people with intriguing stories to tell and the chance to keep on challenging our
minds and
bodies as we have over the last few years living and cruising on our sailboat
Sandpiper???
A name for our Roadtrek seemed only the proper thing:
Shorebird. Sandpiper and
Shorebird, cool!
Michael planned for a six-week journey that would take us from Quebec to Newfoundland/Labrador, thinking we might do about 7500 miles...oops! More about that later; he should never have assigned me the task of deciding when and where we would stop along the way.
Having never visited Niagara Falls, NY, we set that as our beginning. I had to do it: a boatride aboard
Maid of the Mist. At the Visitor's Center we enjoyed the film about the heroic folks who have dared to plunge over the Falls. Most notable: a teacher in a barrel! Now, I have a name for what I used to feel sometimes: A Teacher in a Barrel!!!
We spent the night in the nearby Seneca Niagara Casino lot with a couple of other RV's, hoping to watch Wallenka practice his high tightrope act before his historic and successful crossing of Niagara Falls. The wires, wind machines and water hoses were there in the parking lot in front of the casino, but we missed his show. He spent several weeks preparing for the real event, attempting to re-create the hazards he might face when crossing the thunderous and very wet Niagara Falls.
While doing the Great American Loop in 2004 on our boat, we chose not to visit Quebec City even though we were only 60 miles upriver from this historic site. We did not plan on missing it this time, so we drove north to Montreal first which brought back some pleasant memories of that visit:
From the Interstate, we could see St Anne de Belleview, a small village 25 miles from downtown Montreal and situated by one of the locks we had to transit before moving on to Ottawa. We tied our boat to the concrete wall just before the lock and in front of several restaurants for 3-4 nights while we used public transportation to visit Montreal.
Knowing we needed to find out about buses to the city, we walked to a bank and inquired about the buses. No one had a clue. My French is spotty...nice way of saying terrible, but I can read it better than speak it. We decided to wing it. Somehow we got information that there was a bus stop a few blocks away that would take us to the subway and on into the city. We walked a few blocks, found the stop and waited and waited. I finally looked at the sign; it was Saturday and the bus only ran Monday through Friday. Practically running, we charged back down the street to a stop by the local university and just followed everyone else.
From the Interstate, we both saw that same sign where we had waited and waited.
We needed some advice about where to park our Roadtrek near Montreal and Quebec City, so I googled the question and found out that Casino Montreal, right in the middle of the former Olympic Park, allowed parking. It was perfect for us since we didn't have to go 20-30 miles north of the city for a campground. We spent the night inside the Formula I racetrack that weaves its way around the island which once held the Montreal Olympics back in the '70's. Sadly, some of the facilities on the island are in need of repair which is probably why a casino now sits on this island as well. (In 2004, while we waited for one of the locks on the St Lawrence to open, we were "entertained" by the loud whine of engines as the Formula I drivers practiced for an upcoming race.)
It is really a short distance to Quebec City and our destination was a parking lot that provided "dry camping" overnight for RV's for a mere $50.00. That was fine with us since we would have had to drive several miles out of town for a campground. May is generally early for RV's so we had no problem getting a space next to drydocked sailboats and motoryachts. We were joined by 3-4 other RV's, one from Germany, and enjoyed a lovely view of the city as the night fell.
Quebec City is best seen on foot....I take that back. By carriage is much more relaxing. Our French guide filled in the history and we felt like we were back in the 1700's, interrupted only by the police escorting the young college students who were protesting plans to hike tuition. The protests began in February and were in no way stopping this day.
Getting back across the St Lawrence involved another boatride, of course. East of Quebec City a few miles we caught a ferry that brought us across to the Gaspe' Penninsula. Enroute we caught a glimpse of our first whale, a Baluga, shimmering white in the bright sunlight.
Our plan was to follow Route 132 around the tip of Gaspesie through small towns and villages along the St Lawrence. First night's campground was in La Flavie, home of Le Hommard, restaurant and seafood market specializing in lobster.
Surprising us along Route 132 were 1000's of Snow Geese feeding in fields along the river and small flocks of Black Guillemot, flying low across the waves. A little detour and we found ourselves looking at the world's largest vertical wind generator. Reminded me of a huge beater in a breadmaker.
Maybe the most intriguing lighthouse along the way was this brilliantly red, wooden structure run by a clock mechanism.
Route 132 did not disappoint us with its proximity to the St Lawrence Seaway.
Perce', Quebec is a small, picturesque town whose main attraction is Rocher-Perce', home to a gannet colony, that juts out into the St Lawrence. We were lucky to be there on a Sunday when a wedding was taken place on the town pier.
To be continued...
